Fikirlah: No ‘Mantai’ This Ramadan For Negeri Sembilan Folk

By Kurniawati Kamarudin

SEREMBAN (Bernama) – Tomorrow, Muslims in Malaysia and the rest of the world will observe the third pillar of Islam which is fasting in the holy month of Ramadan. 

This Ramadan, however, will just not be the same as that of previous years. Who could have guessed that a coronavirus would unleash a pandemic and force communities worldwide to make drastic lifestyle changes?

Besides fasting from dawn to dusk, Muslims also observe other traditions and customs during Ramadan.

Fresh meat for sale... it is used to prepare 'rendang' which is eaten with 'lemang' (photograph for illustrative purposes). --fotoBERNAMA (2020) ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

In Negeri Sembilan, for instance, it was customary for the Malays to observe a tradition called mantai. In the Negeri Sembilan dialect, the word mantai means membantai or slaughter.

In the olden days, a day before the fasting month began, the local communities would get together to slaughter cows or buffaloes and cook festive favourites such as rendang and lemang. The locals called this tradition mantai, which was also observed on the eve of Hari Raya Puasa and Hari Raya Aidiladha.    

Butchers cutting up meat for the 'mantai' programme at Kg Paroi, Seremban (photograph for illustrative purposes). --fotoBERNAMA (2020) ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

In the past, Malay families residing in the districts of Jempol, Kuala Pilah, Jelebu, Tampin, Rembau and even in Seremban used to observe mantai. I was born and raised in Kampung Lonek in Jempol and as a child mantai was a part of the festivities in our village.

But as the years passed the mantai concept changed. Instead of gathering to slaughter the animals and cook gotong royong-style, families these days would buy fresh beef or buffalo meat from butchers or traders and prepare the festive dishes in their own homes.    

Yes, mantai has now become more family-oriented and we continue to observe it on the day before Ramadan and Hari Raya. For Negeri Sembilan folk like me, Ramadan or Hari Raya is incomplete if we don’t cook our traditional dishes rendang and lemang. Right now, my mind is filled with memories of my mother waking up early in the morning to prepare the ingredients for cooking rendang and lemang after performing her morning prayers.

On mantai day, the road from Ulu Bendul to Kuala Pilah and Bahau would be dotted with stalls selling fresh meat.  

Mantai is something we Negeri Sembilan folk give priority to as it brings the family together. Those working in other states would make it a point to apply for leave so that they can balik kampung and observe mantai with their families on the eve of Ramadan.

Almost every house in the kampung would have several cars parked on the lawn as the children and grandchildren would have returned home. There would be an air of festivity with the sound of laughter ringing in the air. 

Rows of 'lemang' for sale by the roadside (photograph for illustrative purposes). --fotoBERNAMA (2020) ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

The aroma of burning coconut shells and wood would also waft out as almost every family in the kampung embarks on the activity of preparing lemang – glutinous rice infused with coconut milk cooked over an open fire in hollow bamboo sticks lined with banana leaf.

Even though they cook the same dishes, the families would share their food with their neighbours.

At night on the eve of Ramadan, the families would go to the nearby surau or mosque to perform their isyak and terawih prayers. Early next morning, they would have their pre-dawn meal or sahur before breaking fast together later in the evening on the first day of Ramadan.

Our kampungs are going to be very quiet on the eve of Ramadan this year because the third phase of the Movement Control Order will only end on April 28 and inter-state travel is prohibited during this period.

'Terawih' prayers being held at a mosque (photograph for illustrative purposes). --fotoBERNAMA (2020) ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Those who were able to return to their kampungs just before the MCO was enforced on March 18 are fortunate to be with their families. Still, the atmosphere will be different as they cannot go to the mosque or surau to perform the terawih prayers.

I spoke to my mother recently over the phone to ask her about her preparations for Ramadan and I could detect the sadness in her voice. Trying to be cheerful, she told me it was okay if our family could not gather at our kampung home to welcome Ramadan this year.

Yes, what is more important right now is to ensure that the COVID-19 chain of infection is broken. We have to make some sacrifices in order to win the battle against the coronavirus.

Wishing all Muslims in Malaysia a happy Ramadan.

 (This article expresses the views of the writer.)

Translated by Rema Nambiar

BERNAMA