Pahang's Tempoyak Wins EU Ambassador's Heart

By Rohani Mohd Ibrahim

KUALA LUMPUR, June 1 (Bernama) -- Foreigners in Malaysia, including diplomats, often develop a fondness for local favourites such as nasi lemak, teh tarik and roti canai, which are part of Malaysia’s breakfast culture recognised by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO)  as an element of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

However, the European Union Ambassador to Malaysia, Rafael Daerr, has developed a taste for a wide range of local fare, with Pahang’s tempoyak (fermented durian) standing out as one of his Malaysian culinary favourites, a flavour not universally embraced even among Malaysians.

“Tempoyak has a very acquired taste,” he told Bernama during a tempoyak dinner in Kampung Baru, here recently.

Bernama first learned of Daerr’s fondness for tempoyak during a media engagement earlier this year. The writer then decided to put the ambassador’s enthusiasm to the test by requesting him to speak about EU-Malaysia relations over a traditional tempoyak-themed dinner in the heart of the capital. 

During the dinner, the ambassador enjoyed gulai ikan patin tempoyak (freshwater silver catfish cooked in fermented durian gravy), pais tempoyak and asam tempoyak.

Recalling the time he discovered tempoyak, the ambassador said it was last year in Kampung Kuala Sat,  a village nestled on the fringes of Taman Negara, Pahang.

 “I went there with a few colleagues for the EU’s involvement to kick-start and fund a tiger conservation project under the Al-Sultan Abdullah Royal Tiger Reserve (ASARTR) with an initial funding of RM5 million. This marked the bloc’s role in Malaysia’s conservation initiative,” he said.

Daerr said that, amid discussions with village elders and conservationists, a humble but delicious meal was served — rice with fresh greens and gulai tempoyak ikan patin.

“The locals observed how enthusiastically I embraced it,” he said with a smile.

“From that moment,  tempoyak reappeared at every meal - breakfast, lunch, and dinner during my stay. The homemade quality, the warmth of the company, the very terroir of Pahang — it all converged to create something unforgettable.”

Gulai tempoyak ikan patin (freshwater silver catfish) and tempoyak are listed as Heritage Foods under the National Heritage Act 2005 (Act 645).

The ambassador said he was delighted to come across tempoyak that time, as he is also a durian lover. 

“Malaysia has some of the best durian in the world: the Musang King, Black Thorn, durian kampung and D24. I enjoyed durian a lot,” he said. 

Elaborating on his time in Malaysia, the ambassador said that the combination of the food and the people has made his stay a beautiful one.

“Malaysians like to take me to their favourite makan places. I was asked to park my DC-registered (diplomatic car) somewhere and switched into their cars to get there for some reason. I was also told not to talk about the food because my friends are afraid they won't be able to get a table anymore.

“Malaysians celebrate friendship and company with food. It all creates a holistic positive experience. Both in the EU and Malaysia, food is more than sustenance; it’s a language of hospitality, a bridge between cultures,” he said.

Daerr first visited Malaysia decades ago, on a familial sojourn to Johor Bahru and Mersing in 1979. Years later, in 2011, he returned for his honeymoon, traversing Langkawi’s beaches, Penang’s historic streets, and the lush expanses of Taman Negara. Since assuming his diplomatic post in September 2024, his explorations have only deepened.

According to the ambassador, since his posting in Malaysia, he has taken vacations in Japan and Europe. 

“There is so much more to discover (in Malaysia), and I still don't have the intention to travel to neighbouring countries,” he said.

The ambassador said he prefers to drive himself when travelling because it is more satisfying.

“Driving allows you to absorb the landscape, to take a spontaneous detour or stop on the way. On a ride to Pangkor, for example, it allowed you to stop in Kuala Selangor or Sekinchan for seafood on the way and to admire the emerald paddy fields. This is followed by visiting Teluk Intan’s leaning tower, the atmospheric royal town of Kuala Kangsar and Ipoh on the way back, tasting the city’s legendary pomelos, each detour tells a story.”

His journeys are often family trips with wife and kids, occasionally joined by parents or in-laws. And more friends and family are slated to visit. He welcomes the recent extension of the Visit Malaysia Year 2026 to 2027.

“I’ve already extended invitations to friends and family,” he said.

According to Daerr, Malaysia isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience, Truly Asia in every sense. And in both the EU and Malaysia, cuisine is a living testament to history.

“Whether it’s the spice routes that once connected Malacca to Venice or the shared love of fermentation, be it tempoyak or German sauerkraut, food narrates our interconnected pasts,” he said.

According to the ambassador, as ties between the EU and Malaysia continue to deepen, the shared passion for food can serve as a powerful bridge for new collaborations, cultural discovery, and a more connected future for both peoples.

For in every spoonful of tempoyak, every sip of teh tarik, there lies a reminder that the most profound connections are often forged between people, over a shared meal.

-- BERNAMA