Modern Elements Eroding identity Of Traditional Dressing Of Sabah, Sarawak

By Suraidah Roslan

KUALA LUMPUR, June 1 (Bernama) -- The combination of black fabric with touches of golden lace and sparkling beads continues to make traditional Sabah and Sarawak attire an admiration among many during the Kaamatan and Gawai Festival. 

Now, traditional clothing that was once popular only in two states in Borneo is increasingly gaining ground among young people, especially those working in the federal capital.

The evidence was clearly visible at the Borneo Native Festival (BNF) at Pasar Seni here last week when many visitors appeared in traditional Sabah and Sarawak clothing, matched with modern styles.

However, the increasing variety of modern styles is a little worrying for Sarah Sanapan, 59, a traditional Sabah tailor who strives to maintain the authenticity of each of her designs, especially the Kadazan, Dusun, Murut, and Rungus (KDMR) clothing, so that it does not become lost over time.

"I am afraid that amidst the increasingly rapid stream of modernisation, traditional clothing is starting to lose its touch of authenticity with attempts to modernise it," she told Bernama when met during the BNF recently.

With over 20 years of experience sewing traditional KDMR clothes, the Bisaya woman said that traditional clothing tailors like her should play the role of cultural ambassadors to advise customers to maintain authentic traditional clothing.

Sharing the process of sewing traditional clothing, Sarah noted that Sabah's traditional clothing varies according to tribes and regions, but the Sinipak Dusun Tindal shirt from Kota Belud is among the most complicated and time-consuming to complete.

"To complete a set of Dusun Tindal shirts takes five days because it requires precision when sewing the para-para (sleeves), siling (golden lace) and beads and the easiest is the Kadazan Penampang shirt with five suits completed in a day," she said.

However, Sarah said that the Dusun Tindal shirt is among the best-selling, especially among Sabahans in the Peninsula, foreign tourists and cultural dancers.

Regarding the price of traditional clothing, she said it is sold between RM300 and RM2,000, depending on the jewellery and needs to be matched with accessories such as necklaces, bracelets and belts called himpogot or tangkong.

Also sharing the importance of maintaining the authenticity of traditional clothing is Catherine Eric, a 57-year-old tailor from Sarawak, who first brought a collection from her state to Peninsular Malaysia through BNF.

The Iban woman is concerned that incorporating too many modern elements or applications into traditional clothing will dilute the traditional art and meaning inherent in each garment.

Catherine also shared that she receives many orders for traditional Bidayuh clothing, however, the sewing process takes time because the lis (golden lace) part needs to be sewn carefully.

"Usually it takes me two to three days to complete a set of Bidayuh clothes, but if there is an urgent request, I will try to at least complete the clothes in a day," she said.

A pair of Bidayuh women's clothes without any ornaments cost between RM250 to RM450 and it could reach RM1,500 if worn complete with ornaments such as a scarf, belt, bracelets and anklets, she said.

Regarding BNF, Sarah and Catherine agreed that it is like a cultural bridge that introduces the rich arts and traditions of Sabah and Sarawak to the various ethnic communities in Peninsular Malaysia as well as foreign tourists.

The annual festival, the Kaamatan Festival and Gawai Day, are always eagerly awaited by the Borneo community in Peninsular Malaysia.

-- BERNAMA