By Siti Fauziah Hasan
This is the first of a two-part article on the National Heritage Department’s effort to preserve the local traditional foods.
KUALA LUMPUR (Bernama) – Malaysians are a fortunate lot as the country is home to hundreds of delicious traditional foods.
Ondeh-ondeh, sata, putu piring, lemang, pajeri, gulai tempoyak, otak-otak, pekasam and nasi kerabu are only a few of the delicious traditional foods that Malaysians get enjoy, each originating from the different states and cultures that make up Malaysia.
Some of these foods are still served during festive seasons and special ceremonies. Some are even produced commercially.
A lot of it, however, are slowly disappearing from the local menu due to changing times and evolving palates. It is no surprise that many from the younger generation have not even heard of these foods that were once a favourite of their great grandparents’.
The National Heritage Department (JWN) has, to date, declared 213 foods to be traditional foods under Act 645 of the National Heritage Act 2005 to ensure that these foods remain a part of Malaysian culture and continue to be enjoyed by the current and future generations.
TRACKING DOWN THE HERITAGE FOODS
The JWN Deputy Director General Mohamad Muda Bahadin said that ketupat sotong, nasi minyak and nasi dagang were among the food included in the list.
“This act provides for the conservation and preservation of National Heritage, natural heritage, tangible and intangible cultural heritage, underwater cultural heritage, treasure trove and related matters,” he told Bernama.
JWN defines heritage as what is inherited by the previous generation. It is described as a national treasure that was, or is, owned by a community or people, and thus it become a collective responsibility to protect and preserve it.
Heritage food can be considered as part of a culture that needs to be preserved so that it can be enjoyed and appreciated by the generations to come.
Mohamad Muda said that JWN has travelled across the nation to seek out housewives, entrepreneurs and those from the older generation who were still producing these heritage foods.
“Our researchers and officers have conducted studies and created an inventory of traditional foods passed down from our ancestors and have now become part of the identity of a people.
“Details of these heritage foods such as the name, photos, videos, methods of creation, storage, preparation and the festivals or occasions related with it are all recorded,” Mohamad Muda explained.
He added that tourists and the public are introduced to traditional foods through demonstrations on its preparations, official government events and sales through other government departments and agencies.
One such occasion was during the 2019 National Craft Day celebration where JWN organised cooking demonstrations of several national heritage foods.
“Among them were the ketupat dakap, which was a sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf and steamed, the ketupat palas, a sticky rice wrapped in palas leaves and steamed, pulut kuning, lopes and buah Melaka. These cooking demonstrations were a hit with visitors,” he said.
SHARING FAVOURITES
Mohamad Muda said that every ethnic group in Malaysia has their own heritage food, most of which are now enjoyed by all Malaysians.
“Nasi lemak, for example, was originally a breakfast food of ethnic Malays. Today, it is a food loved by all ethnicities and enjoyed not only for breakfast, but for lunch and dinner as well,” he said.
Chinese favourites such as dim sum, mee and kuey teow are also now beloved by Malaysians of all ethnicities.
Foods popular among the ethnicities of Sabah and Sarawak such as umai, linut and manok pansuh are also becoming increasingly popular nationwide, indirectly contributing towards social unity.
(Umai is a dish of sliced raw fish with a mixture of onions, chillies, salt and lime juice; linut – a sticky porridge made from fresh sago flour; manok pansuh – chicken cooked in bamboo).
RECOGNISING HERITAGE FOODS
Meanwhile, JWN’s World Heritage Division Director Mohd Syahrin Abdullah said that the department was working towards obtaining recognition for the heritage foods by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO).
He added that food was an intangible heritage element that could be nominated for recognition for UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity under the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage 2003.
However, the recognition requires the fulfilment of several criteria such as ensuring the visibility and awareness of the significance of the heritage and stimulating a dialogue that reflects the cultural diversity and creative expression of the element.
Mohd Syahrin said that in order to obtain approval to the UNESCO, the nomination form would first be evaluated by an Advisory Board selected by the UNESCO Secretariat.
A panel of experts in intangible heritage and an appointed body, known as the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage, would then examine each of the nominations before officially inscribing the candidates as elements on the list.
The committee would announce the final decision when it convenes, which usually happens in November or December every year.
“If an element is recognised as part of the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, we would be given a certificate signed by the UNESCO Director-General,” he explained.
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SIDEBAR
THE LIST OF HERITAGE FOODS UNDER THE NATIONAL HERITAGE ACT 2005 (ACT 645)
1 Air Janda Pulang
2 Gula Tarik/Sema
3 Kelamai/Gelamai Tepung Gandum
4 Ketupat Sotong
5 Kuih Bongkong/Jongkong
6 Kuih Tahi Itik
7 Kuih Tepung Torak
8 Sambal Hitam Ikan Bilis
9 Kuih Badak Kubang
10 Aiskrim Malaysia
11 Pulut Mangga
12 Sambal Tahun
13 Bingka/Bengkang Sawit
14 Kuih Cek Mek Molek
15 Cucur Jawa/Cucur Topi/Kuih Penyaram
16 Kuih Angku/Kuih Peria
17 Opor Daging
18 Nasi Minyak
19 Pulut Durian
20 Kelupis
21 Nasi Dalam Buluh
22 Sup Tulang
23 Ubi Gadong Parut Masak Dalam Buluh
24 Ikan Rebus Kering
25 Ikan Cencaru Sumbat
26 Sayur Midin Goreng
27 Masak Lemak Mumbang
28 Masak Lemak Kulat Sisir
29 Bubur Lambuk
30 Bubur Nasi/Nasi Air
31 Bubur Anak Lebah
32 Ais Kepal
33 Emping
34 Kek Lapis Sarawak
35 Jala Emas
36 Kuih Ros
37 Kuih Kole Kacang
38 Kuih Bangkit
39 Kasui
40 Emas Sejemput
41 Buah Tanjung
42 Tepung Pelita
43 Lompat Tikam
44 Kuih Siput
45 Pau
46 Kuih Getas
47 Kuih Kasidah
48 Inang-Inang
49 Tebaloi
50 Kerepek
51 Celorot
52 Kuih Ketayap
53 Solok Lada
54 Solok Ikan
55 Kebebe
56 Air Nira
57 Durian
58 Rempeyek
59 Puding Raja
60 Pengat
61 Ganti Tandan Jagung
62 Apam
63 Apom
64 Kuih Pepena
65 Tau Fu Fa
66 Bubur cha-cha
67 Pulut Tekan dengan Seri Kaya
68 Popia
69 Pie Tee
70 Ambuyat/Pinantung
71 Tompe’/Tinompeh
72 Nonsom Bambangan
73 Tuak
74 Rojak
75 Kuih Rengas
76 Ubi Kayu Rebus dan Sambal Tumis
77 Putu Piring
78 Murtabak
79 Capati
80 Choonpiah
81 Jemput-Jemput
82 Itik Golek
83 Umbut Rebus
84 Sambal Biji Getah
85 Gulai Masam Keladi Kemahang
86 Sambal Tempoyak Daun Kayu
87 Pindang
88 Sotong Sumbat
89 Rendang Campur
90 Kari Kapitan
91 Sup Belut
92 Nasi Kebuli
93 Sambal Rong
94 Sambal Goreng
95 Tauge dan Tauhu Masak Lemak
96 Lawa Terung
97 Lompap Daging dan Hati
98 Ayam Pong Teh
99 Ayam Masak Buah Keluak
100 Jantung Pisang
101 Gerang Asam
102 Budu
103 Ambila
104 Asam Rebus
105 Tempe
106 Keema
107 Tauhu
108 Inche Kabin
109 Kari Devil
110 Nasi Lemak
111 Nasi Ayam
112 Nasi Kunyit
113 Nasi Tumpang
114 Nasi Kerabu
115 Nasi Dagang
116 Nasi Himpit
117 Nasi Goreng
118 Nasi Ulam
119 Ketupat
120 Lemang
121 Pulut Kukus Dalam Periuk Kera
122 Mi Mamak
123 Laksa Asam
124 Mi Kari
125 Char Kuay Teow Pulau Pinang
126 Laksa Johor
127 Bubur Pedas Sarawak
128 Bubur Asyura
129 Bubur Sum-Sum
130 Bubur Kacang Hijau
131 Sagu
132 Kuih Bingka Ubi
133 Rendang
134 Serunding
135 Ayam Percik
136 Manok Pansoh
137 Masak Asam Pedas
138 Gulai Tempoyak Ikan Patin
139 Ikan Bakar
140 Masak Ikan Tanah Liat
141 Gulai Lemak Umbut
142 Gulai Lemak Lada Padi
143 Gulai Asam Rom
144 Kari Kepala Ikan
145 Kurma daging
146 Pajeri
147 Masak ikan dan pisang dalam buluh
148 Yong Tau Foo
149 Daging Dendeng
150 Ayam Panggang
151 Botok-botok ikan
152 Sambal tumis
153 Ketam berlada
154 Teh tarik
155 Cendol
156 Air batu campur (ABC)
157 Air kelapa
158 Air selasih
159 Hinava/Umai
160 Pekasam
161Tempoyak
162 Otak-otak
163 Sambal belacan
164 Cencaluk
165 Sambal gesek ikan bilis
166 Sate atau Satay
167 Yee sang
168 Sata
169 Telur pindang
170 Kerabu mangga muda
171 Acar buah
172 Kuih keria
173 Kuih koci
174 Akok
175 Kuih seri muka
176 Kuih cara
177 Kuih bingka
178 Kuih bakul
179 Kuih bulan
180 Kuih cincin
181 Kuih bakar
182 Kuih sepit
183 Apam balik
184 Pisang goreng
185 Keropok
186 Opok-opok
187 Karipap
188 Buah melaka atau ondeh-ondeh
189 Lempeng
190 Bahulu
191 Dodol
192 Lempuk durian
193 Wajik
194 Seri kaya
195 Halwa
196 Agar-agar sakar
197 Pulut panggang
198 Tapai
199 Masalodeh
200 Putu mayam
201 Muruku
202 Roti jala
203 Roti canai
204 Tosai
205 Penderam
206 Kuih lopis
207 Laddu
208 Ubi kayu
209 Puding raja
210 La-tiang
211 Halwa sukun
212 Wajik sirat
213 Wajik ubi kayu
Translated by Sakina Mohamed
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