The tradition of wearing the tanjak, also known as tengkolok or dastar, among Malay men is believed to have originated during the Malacca Sultanate before spreading to other states, evolving over time in terms of design and function.
Initially worn as a simple piece of cloth wrapped around the head for protection, the tanjak gradually evolved into an intricate headpiece featuring elaborate folds and symbolic meanings. Its distinctive designs also reflect the wearer's personality, identity, social standing, rank and place of origin.
For Muhammad Ali Yusof, a tanjak maker in Terengganu, crafting the traditional headgear requires more than just technical skill. It also demands a thorough understanding of Malay customs and protocols, as the headpiece essentially tells a story about the person wearing it.
According to discoveryterengganu.co, a collaborative initiative between the private sector and the Terengganu Tourism Department, the tradition of wearing the tanjak in the state is believed to date back to the early Terengganu Sultanate in the 18th century.
The website states that the tanjak was then an integral part of the royal court's formal attire and was reserved for selected individuals, including the Sultan, members of the royal family and state dignitaries.
Beyond being a decorative headpiece, it symbolised status, authority and adherence to the rich customs and traditions of the Terengganu Malay royal institution.
CRAFTING HIS OWN TANJAK
Muhammad Ali, 52, who began learning the art of tanjak-making in 2014, said the craft came with a significant responsibility to preserve the uniqueness of this traditional Malay heritage, particularly as he had also been entrusted with making tanjak for the Sultan of Terengganu, Sultan Mizan Zainal Abidin, and members of the royal family.
He said his interest in the craft began when he was a member of a traditional music group known as Kumpulan Dendang Anak, which frequently performed in traditional Malay attire, including the tanjak.
"At the time, we often bought tanjak from other makers to wear during performances. Whenever we needed one, we had to buy a new piece. That was when I thought of learning to make one myself.
“I began learning in 2014 by attending several courses and knowledge-sharing sessions organised by experienced associations. As part of my basic training, I learned the traditional art of tanjak-making through the Pertubuhan Penggiat Seni Alam Melayu (PENILAM).
“I also attended a tanjak-making course organised by the Persatuan Majlis Anak-Anak Anjung Laksamana to learn the techniques involved in creating contemporary tanjak designs.
“Both associations have imparted valuable knowledge and served as my main references in making tanjak, covering both traditional and creative designs,” he told Bernama when met at Karya Jemari Kayangan in Kampung Gaung Tengah, Kuala Berang, recently.
TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY DESIGNS
Muhammad Ali said the art of tanjak-making encompasses two main categories: traditional designs, which follow specific shapes and established specifications, and contemporary creations, which allow makers greater freedom to explore their own designs and creativity.
He said traditional tanjak must adhere to prescribed shapes and specifications, while contemporary designs offer greater flexibility and require inspiration and meticulous craftsmanship to achieve an attractive finish.
"The time taken to make each piece varies according to its design. A traditional tanjak can usually be completed in about 30 minutes, while a contemporary creation may take up to half a day or even longer, depending on its complexity.
"Most of the tanjak I make use songket fabric, either full songket or semi-songket material that combines songket with ordinary fabric, depending on the design and customer's requirements," he said.
Elaborating, he said Terengganu has eight basic traditional tanjak designs, each with its own distinctive shape and identity.
These include Belalai Gajah, worn by the Sultan; Anak Belalai Gajah, worn by the Tengku Mahkota (Crown Prince); Bija Diraja, designated for the Sultan's advisers; Bendahara, worn by the Bendahara (chief minister); Laksamana, worn by the Laksamana (admiral); Dagang Sakit Dirantau, worn by Terengganu dignitaries; as well as Temalong Budu and Lang Melayang, which are worn by the general public.
"The Laksamana is among the most sought-after designs in Terengganu, followed by the Bendahara, which is smaller and looks neat when worn.
"Although modern tanjak designs are gaining attention for their attractive appearance, traditional designs retain their own significance as they represent the identity and heritage of the Malay community," he said.
He added that wearing a tanjak also requires an understanding of customs and protocols, particularly when it comes to designs associated with the royal institution.
"Some designs may be worn by members of the public, but proper protocols must be observed, especially when attending functions involving the royal institution.
"For instance, there are differences in the direction of the folds or wrapping between a tanjak worn by the public and one made for the Sultan. These distinctions must be respected to avoid breaching royal customs and protocol," he said.
ROYAL TRUST IN HIS CRAFTSMANSHIP
Being entrusted with making tanjak for the Sultan of Terengganu and members of the royal family, including the Yang Dipertuan Muda of Terengganu, has been among the most significant responsibilities in Muhammad Ali's journey as a tanjak maker.
Muhammad Ali said the opportunity to produce tanjak for the Sultan of Terengganu and members of the royal family came in 2023, when Kalang Warisan recreational centre founder Mohd Rafi Kori approached him to commission the traditional headgear.
“Kalang Warisan, which promotes arts and heritage activities, also serves as a platform for me to receive tanjak orders for delivery to the centre.
“At the time, the palace took notice of the cultural activities organised at Kalang Warisan and was impressed by my craftsmanship before requesting me to produce tanjak for the Sultan of Terengganu and members of the royal family,” he said.
For these special orders, he said, the palace would usually provide the specially selected songket fabric, while he would be paid for crafting the headgear according to the specifications and requirements given.
He said making tanjak for the royal institution required a high level of precision, particularly in ensuring that the fabric was neatly finished and the folds were arranged according to the desired design.
"One of the techniques used is the Tindih Kasih fold, which is more intricate and requires specialised skills to ensure the tanjak takes shape neatly," he said.
He said a tanjak for the royal institution could usually be completed in about half a day, depending on its design and complexity.
Orders were generally placed whenever the headgear was required for specific palace functions, requiring him to pay close attention to every detail to ensure the finished product met the stipulated requirements.
CUSTOMERS FROM ALL WALKS OF LIFE
Muhammad Ali said his customers came from various backgrounds, including silat associations, archery clubs, enthusiasts of traditional Malay attire and individuals looking for a tanjak to wear at official functions.
He said the headgear was also purchased by those attending investiture ceremonies, where recipients receive medals or state honours, with the choice of design having to conform to the customs and protocols governing such occasions.
"Some customers also buy tanjak as personal collectibles or display pieces for their homes, attracted by the uniqueness of the designs and the heritage value embodied in each handcrafted piece.
"The selling price ranges from RM100 to RM150 per piece, depending on the materials used, including the type of songket fabric, which determines the value of each tanjak," he said.
Apart from tanjak, he also offers a range of traditional Malay attire, including baju Melayu, baju layang, baju takwa, traditional warrior outfits, trousers and shawls.
"The variety of products is one of the advantages of the business, as customers can get their tanjak, clothing and accessories all under one roof without having to visit several different shops," he added.
FOREIGN INTEREST AND PRESERVING HERITAGE
Besides catering to local customers, Muhammad Ali's handcrafted pieces have also attracted buyers from overseas, including Australia.
"The customer bought one to wear at an event, showing that traditional Malay attire also has a place among the international community," he said, adding that he frequently received enquiries from foreign tourists who were intrigued by the tanjak he wore during exhibitions.
With aspirations to expand his market overseas, he makes the most of opportunities to meet foreign visitors, particularly during exhibitions and programmes at Kampung Budaya Terengganu, to introduce the traditional Malay headgear to a wider audience.
Despite the business opportunities, Muhammad Ali believes preserving the art of tanjak-making requires support not only from the government but also from the community to ensure that this traditional Malay accessory continues to appeal to younger generations.
"Perhaps we could introduce initiatives to encourage the wearing of traditional Malay attire at workplaces, similar to the practice of wearing batik on designated days, as part of efforts to make traditional clothing a more common feature of everyday life," he said.
He stressed that Malay attire should be regarded as a symbol of identity and pride rather than merely clothing reserved for official functions or festive occasions.
"If we do not take the initiative to promote our own heritage, it will be difficult to introduce it to the outside world. We need to make wearing traditional Malay attire part of our culture to ensure that this heritage lives on," he said.
To ensure the craft is passed down to future generations, he has also been imparting his skills to his 22-year-old son, Muhammad Mustaffa Matin.
"I am grateful that my second son has shown an interest in continuing the family legacy of making tanjak. The craft requires continuous learning and practice, as well as an understanding of traditional designs, precision in creating the folds and adherence to customs and protocols.
"Preserving the art of tanjak-making is not merely about sustaining a business. It is also about ensuring that a heritage reflecting the identity and pride of the Malay community remains recognised, appreciated and passed down to future generations," he said.
-- BERNAMA
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