The scorching sun over Pulau Bum Bum shows no mercy, searing the skin of anyone walking without shade as they approach a pale-yellow wooden house in the fishing village of Look Melalom, over 10 kilometres from Semporna town.
Not even a hat, umbrella, or mini fan offers relief, as the coastal breeze does little to ease the sweltering midday heat in this remote village, accessible only by sea or air.
Sweat trickles relentlessly, drenching bodies and causing clothes to cling uncomfortably, prompting some to grumble and long for the comfort of their hotel rooms. Yet, the spellbinding rhythm of drums and traditional Bajau Semporna gamelan music, paired with the graceful igal-igal dance of a lepa queen, holds everyone in awe.
Mesmerised by the beauty and uniqueness of the traditional attire worn by the lepa queen—complete with accessories such as the jabang (crown) and kambut (belt) in the Bajau Semporna language—the sweltering heat and thirst seemed to fade away.
“It’s so beautiful. I want to try it on and dance too. I’ve never seen such a stunning costume—I want to wear it with the crown. What’s it called?” asked Dr Ekaterina Rashidin, a Russian woman fluent in Malay, as she admired the exquisite traditional attire.
After the cultural performance, she carefully examined each piece of the Bajau costume neatly displayed in the corner of the house. Now residing in Malaysia, she was eager to showcase the outfit on social media to attract global tourists.
A TRADITION UNDER THREAT
Delighted by the enthusiasm of the Russian visitor who took part in the recent Kraftangan Malaysia tour in Semporna, Sabah, 47-year-old traditional costume maker Narimah Tamjiji shared that Bajau attire holds a distinct charm not found in other ethnic garments, though it remains relatively unknown.
“The traditional attire of the Bajau Semporna community is known as ‘Ala Bimbang’. Like many traditional Bornean costumes, it is predominantly black. However, it now comes in a variety of colours to suit modern preferences, with black still remaining the classic choice,” she explained.
“Besides bead embellishments, the costume is typically worn with gold-coloured bangles (bungkah) and finger sheaths (saling) during the igal-igal dance to enhance the dancer’s elegance. Men usually wear the traditional headgear, tanjak,” she told Bernama.
The beauty and pride of Ala Bimbang for the Bajau Semporna community—located in eastern Sabah and known for scenic islands like Sipadan and Mabul—go beyond tradition. It also symbolises inherited motifs unique to the ethnic group.
With the sea being a vital resource for the fishing communities, motifs such as kelolok (patterns on single-mast sailing boats known as lepa in Bajau), seaweed, and floral designs are key elements in the intricate beadwork adorning these traditional outfits.
Preferring bright-coloured beads to highlight the charm of the wearer, the mother of five explained that Ala Bimbang was traditionally worn only during special occasions such as festivals or Regatta Lepa, the main celebration of the Bajau Semporna people.
“During Regatta Lepa, this heritage attire is commonly worn for cultural celebrations and costume competitions. Over time, its popularity has grown, not only in Sabah but also in Peninsular Malaysia, where I now receive orders,” she said.
“I’m currently busy fulfilling several orders from the peninsula for National Day. While I’m encouraged by the growing interest, I also worry about excessive modernisation of the attire, especially since there are very few of us making it,” she added.
NOT REJECTING MODERNITY
With over a decade of experience crafting traditional attire, Narimah shared that fewer than 20 tailors in her village on Pulau Bum Bum still make this legacy costume—and most of them are elderly.
Having worked under her textile enterprise for several years, these seamstresses are dedicated to preserving the authenticity of Bajau Semporna traditional wear although they fear its distinctive essence may fade under the pressure of modern trends.
“Our designs are flexible to client preferences, although we still maintain traditional motifs like kelolok and seaweed. But we’re concerned that too much modernisation could erase the authentic elements.
“This doesn’t mean I reject modernity. The traditional attire I make has incorporated some modern touches—for instance, it's no longer limited to velvet fabric but now includes various materials based on customer affordability,” she said.
As the second of nine siblings who inherited the craft from her grandmother, Narimah believes that every aspect of the costume—from the cut, folding technique, motif placement, to accessories—carries deep meaning and represents the dignity of the Bajau Semporna people.
Thus, she feels that excessive modernisation, which has become more apparent over the last two years, especially during Regatta Lepa, must be addressed tactfully as it risks threatening the survival of traditional attire.
“There are so few tailors, and we’re worried that excessive changes will make it hard for future generations to distinguish between authentic and modernised versions. I’ve seen our traditional attire turned into gowns, with exaggerated fabric folds that should be neatly tucked on the sides—a style known as lipatan tak jadi.
“Traditional attire tailors should act as cultural ambassadors, guiding clients to preserve the originality of our traditional dress,” she said.
BRINGING THE DESIGN TO LIFE
Despite her concerns, Narimah is grateful that most of her clients—young and old—prefer the authentic touch, believing it enhances the beauty and charm of the wearer.
Since 2019, demand has been increasing, particularly from Peninsular Malaysia, after a university student wearing her design went viral that year.
“Initially, I only received orders from friends in Pulau Bum Bum, Tawau, Semporna, and Kota Kinabalu. But after the viral video and my participation in Kraftangan Malaysia events in 2020, orders started pouring in.
“I couldn’t handle them alone, and only one of my children—my eldest daughter—showed interest. So I invited villagers to join me in the business, which also helps single mothers, fishermen’s wives, and importantly, elevates our traditional attire,” she said.
Previously, she could only complete three outfits a month, but with 12 workers now operating from her 800-square-foot living room, they can produce at least 10 traditional costumes.
Priced between RM1,000 and RM1,500 depending on motif complexity, lacework, and bead detailing, Narimah emphasises that quality is never compromised even when tasks are divided among her team.
“Many love the costumes I make because the motifs appear almost alive, and the stitching is delicate. To achieve that effect, I use high-quality beads and stitch them in sync with the flow of the motif.
“This involves combining different types, colours, and sizes of beads within a single motif to create a vibrant, lifelike design that reflects marine life. Some tailors use only large beads to save time, which is why their work lacks the same sense of vitality,” she explained.
A WORKSHOP FOR GREATER COMFORT
Hoping to see more young people involved in preserving traditional attire, Narimah also dreams of setting up a dedicated workshop to better organise and sustain her operations in the future.
Her living room, though 800 square feet, cannot comfortably accommodate all tailors at once, especially during peak seasons like Regatta Lepa, National Day, or Eid.
Meanwhile, Secretary-General of the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture, Datuk Shaharuddin Abu Sohot, said the ministry, through Kraftangan Malaysia, continues to support craft entrepreneurs through training, promotional efforts, and the commercialisation of local craft.
He added that regardless of how remote the location, the ministry remains committed to preserving the nation’s cultural heritage—both for future generations and as a national treasure.
“These craft products are also valuable tourism assets, attracting visitors who come to see and buy them. That’s why it’s crucial to protect and promote them in support of the Visit Malaysia Year 2026 campaign,” he said.
