W
hile often celebrated for its rich flavours, traditional Malay cuisine—especially village-style recipes passed down through generations—also carries notable health benefits, a fact many have overlooked or forgotten.
Prepared with fresh ingredients like onions, turmeric, ginger and galangal, traditional Malay dishes are known for their distinctive aroma that whets the appetite. They are typically served with ulam (raw herbs) and a variety of sambal.
Often seen as labour-intensive, such dishes are now rarely served at home — especially with the growing popularity of instant seasoning products, which many homemakers use to save time. This shift risks the gradual loss of these treasured, time-honoured recipes.
To preserve this culinary heritage, Restoran Dulang Tok Wan, located here, is leading the way in promoting authentic traditional Malay cuisine.
According to its owner, S Zuraida Said, every dish is prepared using only fresh ingredients, with no shortcuts, to retain its original flavour and nutritional value.
AUTHENTIC COOKING
After gaining traction on social media, the restaurant — which opened in February last year — caught the writer’s attention, leading to a visit and a meeting with Zuraida, 64.
Far from an ordinary cook, Zuraida brings with her over 55 years of kitchen experience, having started helping her father in their restaurant when she was just nine.
“In the past, villagers didn’t have access to modern medicine. So, they cooked with health in mind, using vegetables and herbs readily available around their homes or villages,” she shared.
Preferring to be called Cik Da, she pointed to a plate of stir-fried young papaya in front of the writer.
“Back then, elders would cook young papaya to help prevent constipation,” she explained. “When I was little, we’d eat it with salted fish and hot rice.”
Admittedly, it was the writer’s first time tasting stir-fried young papaya. Its tender texture, subtle spiciness, and hint of sweetness made it surprisingly appetising.
“If you cook crab in coconut milk with pineapple core, it is believed to help reduce gout and joint pain,” said Cik Da.
Snails prepared in coconut milk are said to be even more nutritious when combined with sweet potatoes and pucuk manis (sweet leaf shoots), which are high in fibre and can help ease stomach discomfort.
“The combination of these ingredients supports digestion and even helps flush out fine sand particles commonly found in snails,” she explained.
According to Cik Da, the main difference between modern Malay dishes and traditional ones lies in the choice of ingredients.
“Nowadays, people prefer shortcuts and avoid the hassle of preparing spices from scratch, so the authentic taste is lost. Many, especially the younger generation, have never truly tasted real traditional Malay cooking,” she said.
ROYAL CUISINE
According to Cik Da, every dish at the restaurant is prepared the traditional Malay way — a process that goes beyond ingredients and flavour to reflect the heritage and identity passed down through generations.
She began cooking at nine years old after the passing of her mother. Born in Tasek Gelugor, Penang, and raised in Gerik, Perak, she grew up in a traditional village setting steeped in kitchen customs, culinary wisdom, and strict hygiene practices.
“I’m not just a cook — I inherited my late father’s kitchen,” she shared, adding that she was fortunate to learn from Kak Hamidah, one of her father’s kitchen assistants who had previously worked as a royal palace chef.
“She was in her 60s back in the 70s and taught me a great deal, especially about royal dishes and the finer points of authentic Malay cooking,” she said.
Among the royal dishes served at her restaurant are Talam Diraja, Nasi Lamuni, Rendang Rusa (venison rendang), mutton curry, grilled chicken, pulut kuning, (yellow glutinous rice), and sambal hijau daun kari ( spicy green chili paste infused with curry leaves).
Cik Da is generous with her knowledge. Noticing the prawns in coconut milk on the writer’s table, she explained that adding mashed pumpkin to the dish helps enhance its richness while preserving the prawns’ natural sweetness.
“It’s even better when the prawn flavours blend perfectly with the gravy,” she added with a smile.
MEDICALLY MONITORED
To instil greater confidence among diners, the menu at Dulang Tok Wan is overseen by a medical doctor - Ahmad Faisal Ahmad Nazri, 33 - the youngest of Cik Da’s four children.
“My son ensures that every dish we serve is nutritious and made with high-quality ingredients. We also maintain strict standards of cleanliness and halal compliance,” said the proud mother, adding that all chefs at the restaurant are local Malaysians skilled in traditional Malay cuisine.
In keeping with the kampung spirit, every dish is served in vintage-style floral ceramic plates and bowls, reminiscent of those once used by grandmothers.
“All our tableware is cleaned using industrial machines to ensure proper hygiene,” she added.
Keen to preserve the legacy of authentic Malay cooking, Cik Da said she is currently compiling her inherited recipes into a book.
She also aspires to franchise Dulang Tok Wan, not only to promote traditional Malay cuisine on a wider scale but also to empower local entrepreneurs.
AURA OF THE VILLAGE
Earlier, from the moment the writer stepped into the restaurant, the tantalising aroma of freshly cooked food filled the air, stirring the senses and building anticipation for the much-hyped culinary experience promoted by social media foodies.
Opting for a RM25 meal set that included snapper in spicy tamarind gravy, prawns in coconut milk, omelette, kerabu kampung (village-style salad), and a selection of raw herbs, the writer waited as the food arrived — still steaming — on a floral-patterned metal tray, instantly evoking nostalgic memories of childhood meals at their grandmother’s home.
Starting the meal with a spoonful of rice and snapper cooked in spicy tamarind gravy, the spiciness was balanced by a sour and slightly sweet taste — reminiscent of the classic asam pedas found in Melaka. The freshness of the kerabu kampung added a crisp, mouth-watering contrast.
Each bite was complemented by ulam such as kacang botol (winged beans), cucumber, pegaga (pennywort) and daun selom (water celery), dipped in sambal belacan — delivering a deeply satisfying, authentic experience. For the writer, the RM25 meal felt more than worth it.
Yet, dining at Dulang Tok Wan was about more than just food. It was a nostalgic journey back to the era of traditional wood-fire kitchens — where every dish was lovingly prepared without shortcuts or the artificial flavours of pre-mixed onion or ginger powder that may contain unknown additives.
